VEGETAL BUTTERS AND MARGARINE
Several exotic "butters"
(as cacao butter) are mainly used as cosmetic lipids to regulate epidermal growth, to
cure skin disorders and to retain the skin's beauty. These vegetal fats have a
constitution similar to cacao butter with molecules of triacylglycerols named
"SOS material" (stearic acid in the sn1 and sn3 positions and oleic
acid in the sn2 position). As they have very sharp melting point giving the
"melt-in-the-mouth" sensation one finds in chocolate, they are
currently used in confectionery as substitute of a fraction of cacao
butter. Among them, the most
important are:
Illipe butter (nuts of Shorea stenoptera)
is produced in Southern Asia (Malaysia, Sumatra, Borneo). Its composition is
close to that of cacao butter.
Kokum butter (fruit kernels of Garcinia indica) is
produced in India. It contains about 39% oleic acid, 58% stearic acid, and 2%
palmitic acid. It has applications in skin and hair products, acne products, and
skin tonics.
Mango butter (fruit kernel of Mangifera indica) is
produced in India. It contains about 45% oleic acid, 44% stearic acid, and 6%
palmitic acid. It has good emollient properties, produces stable emulsion, and
therefore is used as an ingredient in skin care products, lotions, massage
creams, hair products, and sun care products.
Sal butter (kernels of the sal tree, Shorea
robusta) is produced in India. It has a composition close to that of mango
butter and physical properties close to those of cacao butter.
Shea butter (fruit kernels of Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotaceae) is
produced in Africa. Due to its unique fatty acid composition (6% linoleic
acid, 47% oleic acid, 43% stearic acid, 4% palmitic acid) it is a soft fat
suitable for many skin-care applications (massage, makeup, baby-care...) (Dencausse
L et al. Oléagineux, Corps gras et Lipides 1995, 2, 143).
It has a high content in unsaponifiable materials (up to 8%) which imparts soothing
properties and provides sun protection (presence of cinnamic acid). The sterol
fraction of this butter is characterized by the presence of two main components,
spinasterol and delta7-stigmasterol. Shea butter
is used for the treatment of dermatoses, eczema, solar erythema, and burns. Shea
butter is also used instead of cacao butter in some food products.
Pentadesma butter (fruit kernels of the african tallow tree or butter
tree, Pentadesma butyracea, Guttiferae) is close to shea butter (Dencausse
L et al. Oléagineux, Corps gras et Lipides 1995, 2, 143). This vegetal
butter has similar physical, chemical and cosmetic properties to those of shea
butter. The presence of an unexpected high proportion of stigmasterol (about 45%
of the sterol fraction) was reported.
Vegetal oils are now used industrially to make a fat similar to butter and known as
